Jacques
Pepin’s Scrambled Egg
After my
success with Julia’s version, I am ready to attempt Jacques’s version of the
perfect scrambled eggs. I want to refresh your memory on Jacques’s version. I
am using the recipes found in the book Cooking at Home by Julia and
Jacques.
Jacques’
version calls for the exact same ingredients:
·
2
or 3 large eggs
·
Salt
and Freshly ground pepper
·
1
T or more unsalted butter
·
1-2
T Heavy Cream
The
difference comes, however, in the equipment and the method of cooking. If you
recall, Julia insists on cooking eggs on moderately low heat, in a non-stick
frying pan (10 in top diameter), with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula. Jacques on the other hand, requests a 2- or
3-quart heavy saucepan and a medium wire whisk, and he insists on higher heat.
The sauce
pan request is odd to me…I have never, ever seen anyone cook eggs in a sauce
pan, nor with a whisk for that matter!
Pepin
writes:
“The purpose of scrambling eggs in a
saucepan is to produce the smallest curds possible, and to cook them quickly,
before they are toughened by the heat. You need to have a pan with high sides
and a small bottom surface, so you can whisk the curds, breaking them up and
moving them off the bottom….The eggs must still be very soft and loose when you
take the pan off the heat.”
‘Soft and
loose’ ….hmmm….I seem to have a bad memory associated with that description
(flashbacks of that 1st attempt are still rather vivid and
haunting).
Pepin is
also specific about the state of the butter when adding the eggs. He says when
the “butter foams” is when to pour the eggs into the hot pan. He continues to say to immediately start
whisking and to steadily continue throughout, breaking up any lumps and making
sure to dislodge any egg that may stick to the bottom corners. This should go
on for about a minute or so until the eggs are uniformly thickened but still
quite soft, with very small and creamy curds.
Then remove
the pan from heat, whisk in another spoon of butter and 1 or 2 tbsp of cream
and quickly serve.
Ok, so I
followed the recipe and had great success. The whisking was fun because it
seemed a better method for breaking the up the eggs. I personally also
preferred the saucepan versus the frying pan. I like this way of cooking eggs
better, it was fast and easy. The result looked exactly as he wants “small and
creamy curds”!
I am not
used to the appearance of either Julia’s or Jacques’ eggs, I am use to a more
pillow-like appearance rather than small curd-like appearance. But the taste is
amazing! What a wonderful first stepping stone in the challenge! Here are some of my photos:
Because of the higher heat the cooking process is quick! Make sure to get all your ingredients ready!
Eggs are uniformily thickened, but soft.
This is when I pulled off the heat and added a tablespoon
of Heavy Cream and butter!
Small and Creamy Curds!
Bon Appetite!
Whisk up the eggs and add salt & pepper
My butter has foamed, it's time to add the egg mixture
Immediately start whisking, and continue throughoutEggs are uniformily thickened, but soft.
This is when I pulled off the heat and added a tablespoon
of Heavy Cream and butter!
Small and Creamy Curds!
Bon Appetite!
If I had to
choose which egg I liked better, I did like Julia’s egg a bit better. Jacques
egg was very good; in fact my cousin loved it! But, it seemed that it would go
best in addition to a garnish (which actually he mentions in the cookbook). And
in all fairness, I will need to try them a couple times to compare.
So, the 2nd
scrambled egg was a success! I can now cross this off the list and move on to
the fried egg.
I hope you
all out there give these recipes a try, if you haven’t already. I think it is
always great to try new things, even if it is a different twist to an old idea.
Happy
Cooking Everyone!